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Silver Care & Storage
When silver lightly tarnishes, clean it immediately.  What (sadly) happens so many times is that a silver item is tucked away in storage in a box, and many years later it's rediscovered.  By then, the tarnish has penetrated so deeply that the silver is permanently scarred.

Silver, unlike gold, is chemically active, which means it oxidizes when exposed to chemicals in the air.  Its surface tarnishes from exposure to certain gases in the air. Therefore, if air is kept away, the tarnish is diminished.

Other Forms of Silver Discoloration are sometimes unexpected and shocking. When someone goes swimming while wearing silver jewelry.  Silver will blacken upon exposure to chlorine.  Often this will require a jeweler's attention.  Even being near a swimming pool will blacken your silver!  The rule of thumb is if you can smell chlorine, your silver is already in danger of discoloring. Obviously household bleach will do the same thing, so be careful.  If you have to use bleach in your house, cover up your silver.  The fumes will even seep through a kitchen drawer.

Don't wash your silverware in a dishwasher.  Dishwashing detergents can contain heavy chemicals which can either directly discolor silver, or interact in solution with the hot water and chemicals and other metals (aluminum, copper, or steel) to permanently discolor your silver.

Other enemies of silver are pollution, perspiration, table salt, eggs, olives, salad dressings, peas, gas, sulfer, vinegar, fruit juices, perfumes and toilet water. Don't let any of these come in contact with silver for long. Sea air and leaking gas tarnish silver very quickly. Watch your fruit and flower bowls, because the acids generated by decaying flowers, leaves and fruits will etch into your silver, causing ugly little pit marks.
Empty siver salt dishes after each use, or the salt will pit them, causing permanent damage. Also, if you use silver candy, nut or serving dishes, wash and dry them throroughly afterward to remove all possible damaging food residue.

Store polished items in drawers or containers lined with  flannel treated with anti-tarnish protection. Or 3M Anti- Tarnish Strips. Do not wrap silver in felt or chamois leather. Both are sources of hydrogen sulfide, a strong tarnish inducer. Never wrap plated silver in newspaper. Printer's ink will act in time to remove the plating. Never secure any wrapping with rubber bands. Rubber, a deadly enemy of silver, can corrode it in a few weeks through several layers of paper or flannel. Best not to have rubber in the same drawer or container.


Sterling Silver is a term used to specify that the metal contains at least 925 parts of silver to 75 parts of copper. Pure silver is rarely used, as it is too soft. The term "Sterling" is derived from an English penny, coined in the Middle Ages. "Sterling" became the standard for British coins.
Unfortunately, there is no magic formula for keeping silver bright. Mettalurgists have worked for years to produce a stainless silver, but without luck so far. So if you want your silver to look its best you are going to have to give it a reasonable amount of care.
Wash you silver promptly after each use with hot suds. Rinse in hot water and dry immediately. If you follow this procedure, you won't have to polish often. When using your silverware, rotate it in daily use so that the finish will mellow uniformly. Wear
Cape Cod® Touch-Up Gloves when setting the table or whenever handling silver items to ensure against fingerprints and light tarnish. Silver does not have to be polished each time it is used.
There are several methods of cleaning tarnished silver  The electrolytic method is safe, fast and never removes any underlying metals. Heavily tarnished items will need restoring with a lite polish such as the Silver Brite Polish & Replate or Polishing Cloths, Gloves or MAAS Liquid Polish. Once restored, the electrlytic plate will maintain your Sterling Silver safely with museum quality care.

 To polish your silver, take time to do it carefully. To protect your hands wear gloves if you like. Rub each piece briskly, but not hard, using even, straight strokes. Wipe dry with a buffing cloth or soft paper towel. You may wash flatware and other pieces you eat from in a mild detergent after polishing.


 Silver-plated items should not be confused with solid silver. In silver plate, a coating of silver has been applied to another metal.

The care of silver plate is the same as for solid silver, except that it should be polished, perhaps, with less energy. Be particularly gentle with plated items, or you may totally remove the thin coating of silver and expose the copper or other metal underneath. Always test on an inconspicuous portion.

Acid Dips
Caution should be observed when using acid dips. They ruin some finishes and damage stainless steel knife blades as well as other materials if allowed to come in contact with them. We believe it to be toxic, a poison in the household that could hurt children and pets, and is known (by California) to be a carcinogen.  However, if you choose to use it, be careful.  It can leave a film – sometimes a thick yellow film - on your silver after it removes the tarnish. This is because they contain a very strong, corrosive acid. I do not recommend using a "Dip" and other experts heartily agree.


Silver plated items that are beginning to show the copper or brass base can be refinished with the SILVER BRITE.  It will  bring back the brilliant shine and it is well worth the small cost as compared to having the items professionally replated. Many people who prefer to always use a polish use the SILVER BRITE every time they need to polish. If you have a silver plated pattern that has patina this is the best way to keep your silver in like new condition and not remove any of the patina. The electrolytic process will remove the patina in the crevices.


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